Chemical peeling for the face among the fair sex is considered one of the most popular and well-known procedures for skin renewal and rejuvenation. It must be carried out in a special cosmetology room with medical equipment.
Can a chemical facial peel be done at home? We asked the certified cosmetologists of the COLADY magazine about this.
Important! Remember that chemical peels are not only cosmetic but also medical procedures. Specialist consultation required!
Dermatologist, cosmetologist Kristina Titkova talks about chemical peeling
Peeling is a skin renewal (exfoliation) procedure using peeling agents (preparations). The chemical peel procedure can be carried out all year round (the most common myth is that peels are carried out only in autumn and winter). Almost all peels are suitable for this statement, but there are exceptions, for example, retinol.
So why do people peel?
The results of the procedure are: improvement of skin texture, reduction of depth of wrinkles, better light reflection and radiance of the skin, reduction of pigmentation, evening of complexion…
Today, there is a huge selection of preparations for chemical peeling by specialists in a clinic, as well as independently at home. The difference between the drugs consists in different concentrations of active ingredients. Home peeling has a lower concentration and is safe to use on its own. The only thing I recommend is not to choose peeling on your own, but to trust your beautician, since each specific product has its own indications, contraindications and features of use.
Absolute contraindications for chemical peeling:
- The presence of inflammation on the skin in the area of the peeling of any nature (infection, trauma, disease).
- The period of exacerbation of herpes, individual intolerance to the components that make up the peeling.
Also, each specific peeling has its own contraindications. All peels can be conditionally divided into 2 groups:
- Peelings that work through negative stimulation. They work “outside” and destroy the stratum corneum of the skin. The skin receives a signal to renew and “heal” damage, and thus the cellular composition is renewed. These include: keratolytics (phenol, salicylic acid, resorcinol), ANA (alpha hydroxy acids or fruit acids), enzymes (proteolytic enzymes, the most famous are bromelain and papain).
- Peelings that work through positive stimulation. And this is one representative – retinol and retinol peels. It does not damage the upper layer of the skin, but penetrates into the nuclei of living cells, gives a signal for active cell division, and young cells moving upward literally displace old skin cells. Retinol peeling is a classic “seasonal” peel and is performed during periods of minimal solar activity, in autumn and winter.
To get the maximum positive result of chemical peeling, you need to follow simple guidelines. Use a sunscreen with a high degree of protection after the peeling procedure, do not injure the skin (do not try to remove crusts and films on your own, if any), use healing, moisturizing creams such as Bepanten.
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How does chemical peel work?
During a deep chemical peeling, all regeneration processes are actively stimulated and the upper layers of the epidermis are removed, which ultimately leads to an improvement in the condition of the facial skin without surgery.
Chemical peeling is a radical procedure, so it is usually done only if there are serious problems: acne, oily problem skin, demodicosis, wrinkles and scars. In addition, chemical peeling is successfully used to prevent skin aging and correct age-related cosmetic defects, eliminate hyperpigmentation, and keratomas. The face after chemical peeling becomes younger, “fresh” and beautiful.
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Indications for chemical peeling
Let’s immediately figure out what age indications can be for chemical peeling:
- up to 25 years old: treatment of problem skin, acne, acne vulgaris, prevention and treatment of molluscum contagiosum;
- 25-30 years old: problem skin, the consequences of previous acne, treatment of actinic dermatitis and hyperpigmentation, prevention of skin aging.
- 30 years or more: treatment of hyperpigmentation of various etiologies, keratosis, correction and prevention of cosmetic skin defects (wrinkles, folds, fading skin), papillovirus infection, preparation for skin plastic surgery and deep dermabrasion.
Types of chemical peels. Skin types and chemical peels
There are several types of chemical peels. They are classified according to the strength of the acid on the face:
- Superficial peeling (in the process, only the upper stratum corneum is affected). This group includes retinoic, almond, glycolic and pyruvic peels. They are used to correct shallow wrinkles and age spots, as well as to prevent their occurrence. Peeling perfectly fights against biological and photoaging of the skin. To enhance the effect of surface peels, they are often combined with deeper types of peels.
- Medium peeling… This category includes TCA peels based on trichloroacetic acid and combined Jessner peels. They act on the epidermal layer of the skin affected by deep scars or wrinkles. An important advantage of this peeling is the ability to use it even at a young age.
- Deep peeling – the most radical type of peeling, because in this case the action of the drugs affects the entire epidermis, not excluding the basement membrane. This category includes phenol peeling, which provides excellent results after complete healing of the skin.
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In general, peeling can be carried out on any type of skin, but it is useful for you to immediately understand the characteristics of skin types.
- Type 1 – there are no wrinkles, the patient needs three times peeling with weak acids once a year to prevent skin aging.
- Type 2 – mimic wrinkles in the corners of the eyes in a relaxed state and deep wrinkles during emotions, the presence of local foci of hyperpigmentation. A sevenfold peeling with fruit acids is required. It is advisable to conduct the course twice a year.
- Type 3 – the presence of wrinkles around the mouth, eyes, on the forehead in a relaxed state, pigmentation disorders. It is necessary to regularly carry out chemical peeling with fruit acids. In addition, you need to discuss with a specialist the possibility of peeling with trichloroacetic acid.
- 4 type – multiple deep wrinkles and irregularities on the entire surface of the facial skin, pigmentation disorders. It is necessary to carry out three peels with trichloroacetic acid, and then additional peels with glycolic acid under the guidance of a dermatocosmetologist.
The best results after chemical peeling are achieved by patients with the second and third skin types. However, even with the fourth type of skin, the result of chemical peeling can be very tangible and quite satisfactory, especially if the patient realistically evaluates the expected results and brings his appearance in line with the internal state, and does not strive to look twenty again.
And now we will introduce you to the chemical peeling procedure.
Chemical peeling procedure and results
- The cosmetologist takes a cotton applicator soaked in a chemical solution and squeezes it out thoroughly… This is to ensure that the solution does not accidentally get into your eyes.
- Then, within 30 minutes – an hour, the doctor with a cotton applicator rubs the solution into the skin your face. The duration of the entire procedure depends on the change in skin color. The doctor treats the skin starting from the forehead, then the nose, cheeks and chin. Especially carefully the solution is rubbed into the wrinkles. During the process, the patient usually feels a slight burning sensation. After the end of the treatment within an hour, the skin swells greatly and in the first two days the patient will not be able to open his eyes.
- On certain lines a doctor puts on the face two layers of cotton and two layers of silk adhesive plaster… There are four layers in total. This is necessary so that the skin retains a certain concentration of the solution for the required period. As a result, the whole procedure takes from one hour to two hours. You cannot take off the mask for two days – on the second day it will disappear almost on its own.
- On the same day the doctor removes the mask, the skin will be treated with thymol iodide, which promotes skin regeneration… With this mask, you need to go 7 days. After 7 days, the swelling will significantly decrease, and a dense crust will be covered on the skin of the face. In no case should you remove the crusts yourself! This can lead to scarring and scarring!
- Then the doctor covers the face with a thick layer of cotton wool for a day, after which the cotton wool is removed. Everything. From this time on, the patient can take care of the facial skin himself with the help of cosmetic products that the doctor will recommend. Cosmetics containing glycolic acid should be avoided. On sunny days, use products with a UV filter with a degree of protection of at least 30.
Chemical peel results
The result of the chemical peeling procedure will be the rejuvenation of the skin and its renewed velvety appearance. In the process of peeling, the skin is toned and regenerated, small wrinkles are eliminated, deep wrinkles and age spots are visibly reduced, and the skin’s relief is leveled.
In the photo below, you can see the amazing results of a chemical peel.
Contraindications for chemical peels. Side effects
The chemical peeling procedure is contraindicated:
- in the presence of any neoplasms;
- in the presence of warts;
- in the presence of visible damage and skin irritation;
- with an active form of herpes;
- increased skin sensitivity;
- in case of allergic reactions to the drugs used;
- with a tendency to form keloid scars;
- during exacerbation of acne;
- after recent radiation therapy;
- after the recent use of the drug Roaccutane.
Autumn is considered the most favorable season for chemical peeling, since during this period the sun is much less active, and direct ultraviolet rays no longer affect the skin of the face so much. Chemical peeling has a destructive effect on the skin and it takes time to recover, and direct exposure to ultraviolet radiation can greatly interfere with the regeneration process.
Side effects of chemical peels
Can there be side effects from chemical peels? Unfortunately, they can. Here are some of them:
- The appearance of foci of hyperpigmentation
- Exacerbation of herpetic skin lesions
- Itching of the skin of the face.
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