How to care for furs and fur products at home – tips for housewives

The Russian harsh and snowy winter forces people to warm themselves with fur clothes. Decorating coats and hats with fur is also common – it is beautiful, stylish and in line with any winter fashion trends. But before the owners of these warm and beautiful things, the question always arises – how to clean them, how to care for fur products?

15 most important rules for caring for fur products at home – how to care for fur products?

fur coat
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  1. When buying a fur product, you need to determine the right place for it in home wardrobes. The fur should not be pressed tightly against the walls of the cabinet or other things – it needs ventilation, cool and dry air. The fur product should be kept away from heating appliances and the rays of the sun.
  2. Chemicals are harmful to fur – hairspray, perfume, foundation. If the fur is in a room that is smoked, it will easily absorb the smell of cigarette smoke and will be extremely difficult to get rid of.
  3. Hats made of fur, or with fur trim, must be stored put on special blanks for storage, or three-liter jars, so that they do not touch the shelves of the cabinet with fur edging.
  4. If the fur on the garments is soaked in the rain or has accumulated a lot of snow, which later melted, the garments must be well shaken, removing moisture and “lifting” the pile, and then placed for drying in a ventilated room – a fur coat and a coat with fur collars, fur vests – on hangers, hats – on cans or blanks. For drying, you cannot use heating devices, dry over a stove, use a hair dryer, an air heater.
  5. If a fur garment is slightly dirty, it is necessary to clean these places with a mixture of salt (table salt) and ammonia, in a ratio of 3 to 1. Clean with a soft cloth or foam sponge, never with hard brushes, rubber sponges.
  6. Heavily soiled fur on things can be cleaned with gasoline (peeled!), According to the growth of the fur. The clothes then need to be very well ventilated so that the smell will dissipate. If the degree of contamination of a fur product is high, then it is worth cleaning it with bran, semolina, starch, fried oatmeal, driving the funds into the fur, and then combing it out of the fur with a soft brush in the direction of growth.
  7. When removing a fur garment for summer storage, the hostess must make sure that it is clean and dry. It is better to store a fur product not in a cellophane bag, but in bags glued from newspapers (hats, scarves, gloves), perforated non-woven covers (fur coats, coats with collars).
  8. To protect the fur from damage by moths or leather-eaters, pieces of scented soap, orange peels, dried lavender leaves, geraniums, special sachets and moth-proof cassettes should be placed in bags and cabinets. There is no need to sprinkle the fur with mothballs – firstly, it will be difficult to get rid of its smell later, and secondly, the mothballs spoil the fur and flesh, they become brittle, dull, loose.
  9. Boas and couplings must be stored suspended in cabinets, always in free space.
  10. For storing fur products, you can make special covers yourself. To do this, take bags made of cotton or linen so that they fit the size of the product. Soak the bags in a concentrated salt solution, or lather thickly with laundry soap, do not rinse, let dry. Put fur products in these bags for storage – provided that they are not crumpled in them.
  11. During the summer, it is necessary to take out fur products 1-2 times, ventilate them in the open air, and then put them back for storage.
  12. You can comb the fur on things only with a comb with very rare teeth, or with your fingers.
  13. It is necessary to sew a button on fur products on a “leg”, or put a circle made of genuine leather under it.
  14. You can add shine to fur products by wiping the fur with a mixture of equal proportions of vinegar, alcohol, water; then dry the product well.
  15. Clothes made from otter, beaver, and mole fur should be cleaned with toasted hot oatmeal, combing along the pile with a soft brush, or with hot calcined sand (dry).

Read also: Is it possible to wash a fur coat at home and how to do it correctly?

The best home fur care products – how to care for your fur and how to clean it?

fur
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  • You cannot iron the fur! If the lining is crumpled, you can straighten it with a vertical “iron” with steam when placing the product on a hanger. Even the lining on the ironing board cannot be ironed – the fur will adhere and it will be impossible to straighten it.
  • You can steam a fur product on a delicate mode, and only by placing a fur coat on a hanger, a hat on a blank, a neckpiece and a sleeve – hanging it. The outlet of the steam generator must not be pressed close to the fur – it is necessary to ensure that the steam only slightly touches the surface of the fur, otherwise “welding” of the flesh and damage to the product may occur. Steam should be used only in very rare cases, when the product has persistent creases and dented places.
  • If the creases on the fur are very strong, then they should first be treated with a mixture of alcohol and water, in a ratio of 1 to two, and then steamed.
  • You can wash a fur product at home, but on condition that the hostess is confident in the strength of the flesh. When washing, use only the manual method, warm water, liquid detergents for wool products. The fur garment must be thoroughly rinsed, the last rinse must be in cold water to make the fur shine.
  • It is necessary to dry the washed fur products with good air ventilation, without using air conditioners and heating devices, and also without hanging them out in the sunlight. During drying, it is necessary to shake the product frequently, to give it its original shape. Expensive and very delicate fur items must be dry-cleaned for a professional approach to an expensive product.
  • Care of fur hats consists in proper storage and proper cleaning of this product. If the hat is sewn on a dense glue frame, you cannot use washing, as well as deep steaming. It is necessary to store a fur hat on a blank (you can make a cylinder out of cardboard for this purpose on your own), or on three-liter cans. A fur hat should not be combed with a thick comb or a very hard brush, because the fur can smooth out and lose its fluffiness, and if the flesh was initially strongly stretched, then the hairs will begin to fall out. It is better to spread the fur with your fingers, shaking the product, or using a comb with very rare teeth (preferably antistatic).
  • Most of all, on a fur hat, the lower back of the head, which is in contact with the neck and collar of clothes, as well as the lining above the forehead, gets dirty. Women face a problem when foundation and powder applied to the forehead contaminate the lining of the hat. In order to wash the lining, you need to carefully rip it off in a circle, and after washing and drying, sew it with exactly the same stitches to the hat. If it is not possible to remove the lining, it can be cleaned with the foam of the Vanish carpet cleaner – for this, place the thick foam on the dirty areas of the lining fabric, rub them a little and immediately clean them with a vacuum cleaner (put the smallest nozzle on the tube. repeat, then wipe the lining with a cloth soaked in water and vinegar (1 teaspoon per glass), shake the product and place on a blank or jar in a well-ventilated place.
  • Fur collars on coats are easiest to peel off when they are detachable. To clean the fur of the collar, you can use the same products as for cleaning fur hats – starch, refined gasoline, bran, hot sand, fried oat flakes, etc. It is necessary to clean the collar after hanging it on wide comfortable hangers, or on a mannequin.
  • If the collar on the coat is not removable, then a different tactic must be applied to cleaning it and fur cuffs. The most contaminated areas of the collar that touch the neck and clothing; Fur cuffs become dirty and wrinkle on the inside of the sleeves. If it becomes necessary to clean these products, it is necessary, first of all, to secure the lining fabric and the drape of the coat itself, so that after cleaning they do not appear stains. When cleaning, the coat should be laid out on a wide table, under the collar and cuffs on the drape, put a thick cloth and cellophane film.
  • General cleaning of fur collars and cuffs consists of driving the starch and other means described above into the fur, and then combing them out of the product. To clean the most dirty areas of the collar and cuffs, you can prepare a mixture: mix alcohol, vinegar, and water in equal proportions. Gently wipe dirty places with a foam sponge, which is moistened with this liquid. Then you need to take a dry, clean linen napkin and wipe the cleaned places with it. Then the product must be shaken, if necessary – combed with a soft brush, giving the correct direction of the pile, and placed on a hanger for drying.
  • The fur of a sheepskin coat is cleaned in the same way as the fur of a fur coat. But the suede surface of the outer side of the sheepskin coat needs a completely different approach. Minor scuffs and stains can be tried with a student’s eraser. The greasy places on the elbows of the sheepskin coat can be held over the steam from the kettle, and then cleaned with a stiff brush.
  • Stains on the sheepskin coat do not need to be cleaned with salt or any other means that can leave streaks. It is worth using starch or semolina, gently brushing them over the suede with a brush, then shaking off the product. Starch, semolina, as well as bran, ground oatmeal, corn flour do not leave streaks, and they clean things well.

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